Athlete Minded: Stories

Hall of Fame Surfer and Current Surf Instructor Nancy Emerson tells her story about growing up near the ocean and falling in love with it. She was on the forefront of women's surfing in the world, and because of that was inducted into the Hall of Fame in Hawaii.  We discuss what to do when you get crunched by a big wave, the appeal of "big wave" surfing, and why you should always know how to swim before you even try to surf. She now runs camps and instruction in Hawaii for surfers.  Her website is surfclinics.com