WARDROBE CRISIS with Clare Press

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  • Narrator: Vários
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  • Duration: 170:31:49
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Synopsis

WARDROBE CRISIS is a sustainable fashion podcast from VOGUE's sustainability editor Clare Press. Join Clare and her guests as they decode the fashion system, and dig deep into its effects on people and planet. This show unzips the real issues that face the fashion industry today, with a focus on ethics, sustainability, consumerism, activism, identity and creativity.

Episodes

  • Paul van Zyl - Social Justice, Maiyet & The Conduit

    30/11/2018 Duration: 38min

    Paul van Zyl is a human rights lawyer and ethical fashion entrepreneur, who 2009 he founded Maiyet, a luxury fashion brand with a social impact purpose.The idea was to “incorporate ancient traditions in non-traditional ways by partnering with artisans in developing economies and by sourcing material in ethical ways.” It's about creating opportunity, local entrepreneurship, prosperity, and dignity in, as Paul puts it, the places that need it most.Maiyet partnered with Artisans in Colombia, India, Indonesia, Kenya, South Sudan. They showed on the Paris fashion week schedule and they really helped shift the conversation about ethical fashion in the luxury space.But Paul is not your obvious fashion man. His grew up in South Africa during the apartheid era, and served as the Executive Secretary of South Africa's post-apartheid Truth and Reconciliation Commission from 1995 to 1998.In this interview we talk about what that was like and how it shaped him. We discuss the opportinities provided by the fashi

  • Christina Dean - Fighting Fashion Waste

    27/11/2018 Duration: 43min

    ‘Single-use' was named the Word of the Year for 2018 by the Collins Dictionary. Now that we know the oceans are choking with plastics, disposable has become a dirty word. We also know, there is no away. Nothing that uses synthetic materials is ‘disposable' – it has to go somewhere. Out of site, out of mind is a total copout. But what about so-called "disposable fashion"?Single-use fashion is perhaps a stretch – but we're not a million miles away. Clothing usability is declining. Stats vary, but according the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the average number of times a garment is worn before it ceases to be used has decreased by 36% compared to 15 years ago. In the US clothes are worn for around a quarter of the global average. The same pattern is emerging in China, where clothing utilisation has decreased by 70% over the last 15 years ago.Do you know how much fashion we throw away?Clothing production about doubled during that time; we now produce around 100 billion garments a year. Of the

  • Easton Pearson - Slow Fashion in a Fast Fashion World

    20/11/2018 Duration: 39min

    What was it like to pioneer ethical fashion before that was even a phrase? For 27 years, Pamela Easton and Lydia Pearson ran the iconic Australian fashion label Easton Pearson, known for its exquisite artisanal fabrics and embellishments, colourful exuberance and sense of fun.They are the subjects of an exhibition at the Museum of Brisbane, The Designers' Guide: Easton Pearson Archive - an invaluable resource for fashion students and fashion fans. It's also an important contribution to Australia's cultural history, which fashion absolutely should be considered a part of.In this interview, we discuss why this Aussie icon, that sold at Browns in London and Bergdorf's in New York, was such a big deal. Pam and Lydia decode their design and making processes, and detail how they started out on the business of fashion, and kept at it for so long.We talk about how they pioneered and centred slow fashion and ethical production in the Australian context, and also in India, where their main workshop was locate

  • Vogue Italia's Sara Maino & Vogue Green Talents

    09/11/2018 Duration: 46min

    What does it take to break through as an emerging fashion designer today? Do sustainable designers have the edge? Who are the names to know, now? Sara Maino is the deputy editor-in-chief of VOGUE ITALIA, and the fashion force behind VOGUE TALENTS, Vogue Green Talents and Who Is On Next?As she told the New York Times: “You will rarely see me at the big shows, those blockbuster events with a starry front row. That is really not my scene.” Instead, Sara combs the globe meeting students, attending independent shows and scouting under-the-radar studios and showrooms.In this Episode, recorded during Milan fashion week for Spring '19, Sara shares her insights on nurturing creativity and finding the next big thing. We discuss slow fashion, the pressures on young designers and the ways in which the industry can support new talent. We also hear from 4 new gen talents, who are changing fashoin for good - whether by choosing recycled and eco-friendly fabrics, re-energising age-old crafts or embeddin

  • Fashion Education - Dilys Williams & the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London

    31/10/2018 Duration: 47min

    Welcome to our 60th episode! Can you believe it? This week's guest also have an anniversary to celebrate as the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at London College of Fashion turns 10. You're going to meet its founder, academic, designer, educator and all-round sustainable fashion legend Dilys Williams.This is a lively and thought-provoking discussion about how we might totally redesign the way the current fashion system works.We talk about the role of the designer, the role of fashion in all our lives and how commerce fits in. We discuss the importance of being critical thinkers, fashion rebels and outspoken advocates for justice. We touch on DIY, Margaret Thatcher, The Clash, and finding your fashion identity, but also big stuff continuing the conversation that's been running through this series of the podcast about how we stand with nature, and what our obligations are to it. How do we define our struggle for sustainability?Chat with Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspressTHANK YOU FOR LISTENING.Love th

  • Cradle to Cradle's William McDonough - Fashion is a Verb

    13/10/2018 Duration: 50min

    Meet legendary thinker, innovator, disruptor and Cradle to Cradle hero, William McDonough. Architect, designer, thought leader, and author – his vision for a future of abundance for all is helping companies and communities think differently. He was the inaugural chair of the World Economic Forum's Meta-Council on the Circular Economy and currently serves on the Forum's Global Future Council on the Future of Environment and Natural Resource Security. For more than 40 years, he has defined the principles of the sustainability movement.This interview is a must for anyone who is interested in the circular economy, or indeed just cares about the future of our planet. We discuss why we should we view waste as a resource, and how we can transition to doing that. We talk about sustainable development, about look at how we measure society's success now, and how we might change that in future.As Bill and his co-writer Michael Braungart write in Cradle to Cradle, “In the race for economic

  • Fashion for Good's Katrin Ley

    06/10/2018 Duration: 43min

    Katrin Ley is the CEO of FASHION FOR GOOD, an Amersterdam-based organisation that was co-founded by Cradle-to-Cradle's William McDonough. They aim to bring together the entire fashion ecosystem with incentives, resources and tools for sustainability.At Fashion For Good's core is McDonough's concept of the Five Goods, which, he says, “represent an aspirational framework we can all use to work towards a world in which we do not simply take, make, waste, but rather take, make, renew and restore.” In interview Katrin and Clare discuss what good looks like when it comes to clothing production and circularity. Case study: the first Gold Cradle to Cradle Certified jeans and T-shirts.There's a strong focus in this interview on innovation, new ideas and disruptors. We also explore this new age of sharing and helping each other, because, as Katrin says, if we want to change the fashion system, that's what it's going to take.Is the fashion industry really ready for serious

  • Dame Ellen MacArthur, Making Fashion Circular

    29/09/2018 Duration: 38min

    To say that Ellen MacArthur is a phenomenal woman is an understatement. In 2005, aged 28, she became the fastest person to sail solo, non-stop around the world. It took her 71 days, 14 hours and 18 minutes.You're going to hear what that was like, how she stayed focused and what she learned from it. The importance of goal setting really comes through in this interview. Ellen is obviously an incredibly determined person but there's a take-away for us all here: it's about having a plan - by knowing which direction you want to go in, that's how you make stuff happen.What's all this got to do with fashion? This is the story of how a world-record-breaking British sailor became an international advocate for the circular economy. How she created a platform, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, to encourage the global economy to transition to a system that designs out waste & pollution, keeps materials in use and regenerates natural systems. It's also the story of what that might look like, and how we can action i

  • Tamsin Lejeune, Access over Ownership & Common Objective

    20/09/2018 Duration: 48min

    Sometimes it can feel like sustainable fashion is a new thing, but pioneers laid the groundwork years ago. People like this week's guest, British fashion change-maker Tamsin Lejeune.Back in 2006, Tamsin founded the Ethical Fashion Forum, a London-based industry body for sustainable fashion. Her team also brought us Source, one of the first platforms to list sustainable resources & suppliers in one place.In the UK, it was Tamsin & her team who were running the sustainable fashion panel discussions and bringing the fledgling ethical fashion community together.How much has changed since then? How far off is sustainable fashion from being the norm? What tools do we need TO DO FASHION BETTER?Today, Tamsin leads a new project called Common Objective with that in mind. Think, a sustainable fashion matchmaking service, like a targeted Linkedin, or Tinder without the romance.In this absorbing interview we discuss what's going on with fast fashion and why the model is broken. We decode the d

  • Outland Denim's James Bartle on Fighting Human Trafficking & Creating Positive Opportunity

    14/09/2018 Duration: 48min

    How does an ordinary Aussie bloke go from motor-cross riding and working as a welder to setting up a social enterprise fashion business? You're going to meet James Bartle, founder of Outland Denim. This is a candid eye-opening interview about an extraordinary story.We talk about the tough stuff: Who gets trafficked, and who does the trafficking and why? Is it possible to empathise with their desperation?We talk about materials, and how organic and reduced waste is essential to the big picture. We talk about B Corps and value-driven business, the state of ethical fashion right now, & where the industry is improving and failing. Plus there's heaps of insights into how to set up, run and make a success of a sustainable, ethical fashion label.This is the last of 3 shows on modern slavery. Don't miss the previous 2. We've managed to make them accessible and even inviting. No mean feat for such a tricky subject.Chat with Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspressTHANK YOU FOR LISTENING.We are always grateful

  • Safia Minney, Fair Trade Fabulous

    04/09/2018 Duration: 43min

    CHECK OUT OUR SHOWNOTES for masses of extra goodness.If only all fashion was fair trade fashion. According to the Global Slavery Index 2018, fashion is one of 5 key industries implicated in modern slavery. In Australia, every year we import over $US4 billion worth of clothes and accessories at risk of being tainted by modern slavery. 40 million people globally are trapped in it, and 71 % are women.In this Episode, we hear from ethical fashion pioneer Safia Minney. The founder of People Tree is now heading up fair trade shoe brand Po-zu. She appears in The True Cost. She's an MBE, an activist, and has spoken more than once at the World Economic Forum's meetings in Davos. Safia is the author of 4 books, including her latest Slave to Fashion. Slave-free fashion is achievable, says Safia. Indeed fashion can be used to empower workers. We discuss how, the challenges and joys of working this way, how she started out - way before ethical fashion was *a thing and what makes her heart sing the

  • Baroness Lola Young on Modern Slavery in Fashion

    29/08/2018 Duration: 58min

    CHECK OUT OUR SHOWNOTES for masses of extra goodness.According to the Global Slavery Index 2018, fashion is one of 5 key industries implicated in modern slavery. How does that happen? What can we do about it?In this Episode, you're going to meet Baroness Lola Young of Hornsey, a British crossbench peer in the House of Lords who is active in the ethical fashion space and is working to amend the UK's Modern Slavery Act.Modern slavery is, of course, a depressing issue but this episode is not depressing. No, no. It's got the power! It's all about unleashing your inner activist, understanding the issues and taking positive steps to do something about them - if you're an individual, they can be really small steps. If you're in business, they might be bigger ones. Don't forget to check the shownotes for further reading.Lola Young started out as an actor, went onto become a professor of cultural studies then the Head of Culture at the Greater London Authority. She's been a judge for the Orange Prize for Literatu

  • Do We Need Sustainable Fashion Weeks?

    23/08/2018 Duration: 35min

    In 2018, what is fashion week actually for? Is the old system tired & old-fashioned? Has it lost its purpose and reason for being? If so, what sorts events do we want to see take over? Do we need sustainable fashion weeks? In this Episode, we meet Evelyn Mora, 26, the Finnish photographer-turned-event-producer behind Helsinki Fashion Week. This event, which happened in July in Finland's capital city, focuses on sustainability. Evelyn's mission? To reinvent “traditional concepts of fashion week venues and the ways they present collections to buyers and press” while simultaneously “questioning the way we consume.”She says her vision is for “circularity, sustainability and beauty” but it's also about getting rid of what's gone before. Evelyn is a change agent who likes to shake things up. She wants fashion weeks to be super-inclusive, zero-waste, diverse, open to anyone who's interested, showcasing ONLY ethically produced and environmentally-a

  • Artisan Fashion in Kenya

    16/08/2018 Duration: 39min

    How can fashion aristanship empower women? What does a fair work accessories factory look like, and how do the workers see value in the setup? How about in community hubs, where skilled artisans can work as collectives?This is the second instalment of a 2-part series about the UN's Ethical Fashion Initiative, a flagship programme of the International Trade Centre. The EFI connects skilled artisans in places like Kenya, Mali, Burkina Faso, Haiti and Afghanistan, to the international value chain of fashion, working with the likes of Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, Adidas and the Australian accessories house MIMCO.In this Episode - recorded on the ground in Nairobi, Kenya - we get to hear from the artisans themselves, and discover why Artisan Fashion now runs the organisation here as a social enterprise. And we learn how fair work can empower women - from the women themselves.Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspressLove the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps!We are al

  • Simone Cipriani, the United Nations & the Ethical Fashion Initiative

    08/08/2018 Duration: 46min

    Meet Simone Cipriani, founder of the UN's Ethical Fashion Initiative, a flagship programme of the International Trade Centre, a joint agency of the UN and World Trade Organization.The EFI connects skilled artisans in places like Kenya, Mali, Burkina Faso, Haiti and now Afghanistan, to the international value chain of fashion, working with the likes of Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, Adidas and the Australian accessories house MIMCO.Simone sees luxury fashion as a vehicle for development. He talks about ethics and aesthetics and says Sweatshops and workers trapped in an endless cycle of creating cheap fast-fashion is not true fashion.Simone believes responsibly produced fashion can help change the world  for the better. Actually, he knows it can, because he started this endeavour in 2009, and nearly a decade later it's thriving and has seen thousands of people find fair and ongoing work opportunities.This is part 1 of a 2-part series. Next week, we'll be bringing you the podcast Clare recor

  • Tim Jarvis, a Polar Explorer's Insights

    25/07/2018 Duration: 48min

    What to pack for an expedition to Antarctica? Or to keep yourself alive on a remote mountainside? In extreme conditions, clothes move way beyond fashion to become tools for survival.  In this Episode, you get to hang out with environmental scientist, polar explorer, author and adventurer Tim Jarvis, a man for whom pushing himself to the limits of his physical endurance is all in a day's work. But Tim doesn't undertake his incredible expeditions just to prove he's tough; he does it for a higher purpose - to spread the word about climate change, and show us how some of the remotest regions on Earth are being impacted by global warming.Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspressEnjoy the show? Please consider rating & reviewing in Apple.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

  • Anna Gedda on H&M's Sustainability Goals & Challenges

    12/07/2018 Duration: 31min

    Can fast fashion ever be sustainable? Will circularity funadamentally change things? Or is it, practically speaking, too far off? How about supply chain transparency, collaboration and pumping resources into textile innovation? Is all this eclipsed by the shadow of overproduction?Swedish giant H&M is the second biggest clothing company in the world (the first is Zara.) The H&M Group comprises the H&M brand, but also COS, & Other Stories, jeans brand Cheap Monday, hyper-transparent newcomer Arket and a couple of others.Clare caught up with Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability at the H&M Group since 2015, at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit to ask about the company's approach to sustainability across its brands. Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspressLove the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps!We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. You can find us on Spotify now too.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information. See acast.com/priva

  • Tim Silverwood, Beating Plastic Pollution

    03/07/2018 Duration: 50min

    "Change isn't going to be easy, but there's no time to procrastinate or hope someone else is going to fix it…it's time to do something. YOU are the person you've been waiting for." — Tim Silverwood.Meet Tim Silverwood CEO of Take 3 for the Sea. Tim is an Australian environmentalist, surfer and plastic pollution campaigner. In Australia, you might have seen him on War on Waste, or if you have kids (or if you are one) you might have seen him at your school. He's given hundreds of talks to schools, communities and businesses on the ocean plastics issue.This episode is all about what we can do to turn it around. Be warned: it's highly motivating!Our interview was recorded live at the Sustainable Living Festival in Melbourne. Thank you to the Australian documentary Blue for supporting this Episode.Follow Clare on Instagram and Twitter @mrspressLove the podcast? We have a Patreon page - every little helps!We are always grateful for ratings and reviews on iTunes. You can fi

  • Supermodel Lily Cole on the Bcorps & Purpose

    27/06/2018 Duration: 41min

    Lily Cole rose to fame as a model. She was the youngest model to appear on the cover of British Vogue, and was listed by French Vogue as one of the top 30 models of the 2000s. Her pictures, shot by some of photography's greatest names (think Tim Walker, Nick Knight, Steven Meisel) are some of the most memorable in the business, but these days Lily has other fish to fry.An environmental advocate, actor, writer and filmmaker, she is also a social entrepreneur. She is the founder of Impossible.com, a B Corp that uses technology to solve social and environmental problems. It began as a platform for the gift economy and today, she says, is focused on "trying to use tech in a positive way, and doing that through collaborations."In this lovely and intriguing Episode, we discuss Lily's love for nature and the ways in which that informs the work she does today. We talk climate change and the power of positive messaging. We get into frameworks for business with puropse, the need to rethink how we measure succ

  • Roland Mouret, Sex, Fashion & Sustainability

    22/06/2018 Duration: 51min

    You probably know about ROLAND MOURET's famous "Galaxy" dress. Fitted, flattering, cap-sleeved and much-copied, it was a phenomenon in the 2000s, worn by everyone from Beyoncé and Scarlett Johansson to Demi Moore and Victoria Beckham.You might also know about another of his glamorous clients, Megan Markle, who wore a chic navy Roland Mouret dress the day before her wedding to Prince Harry.What is less well-know is the designer's strong interest in sustainability. He's thought deeply about this subject, and questioned everything around it, from how and why he makes things, and how that has evolved, to the impacts of over-consumption, the power of fashion to communicate a message and how we can make sustainability hot—and not just hot right now.We doubt there's anyone better placed to contextualise fashion's perpetuation of addictive desire than Roland Mouret. His design magic lies in making women feel amazing in his clothes. He says a dress doesn't come alive until a woman wears it. This thou

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